MADELEINE DE PROUST – by Indi Noon
Growing up a winemaker’s daughter, I have often rolled my eyes at my parents’ seemingly excessive concern of the handling of their products. If I were to take a bottle of wine to a dinner party for example, I would be thoroughly interrogated.
“How far are you travelling?”
“How hot is it going to be?”
“What will you be eating?”
“What time will you be there?”
A normal person might assume these are questions of a protective parent, worried for their child’s wellbeing. But no, in my family, these questions are to determine the safety and care of their wine.
“Don’t leave that bottle in the car too long! And park in the shade won’t you!”
“Put that Rose in the fridge when you arrive, but take it out 10min before serving!”
“Smell the cork first! SMELL THE CORK!”
Sometimes I feel like yelling back, “You want me to sing it a lullaby too?!”
Over time I’ve realised their irritable intensity and instruction stems from a deep desire to ensure maximum enjoyment of something they take great pride in making. Their life’s work, in fact.
And it appears this kind of scrutiny is not exclusive to winemakers.
A few weeks ago, dad received a text message from my aunty Tray, who was working in Melbourne for the week; “Morning Drew. I’ve bought a sweet treat to share with you and your family. Could Mum and I join you for afternoon tea tomorrow?”
This message sparked much excitement in our household. Knowing Tray and knowing the culinary delights of Melbourne, the surprise was sure to be tasty.
Tray and Grandma arrived at the winery twenty-four hours later with a large paper bag, the kind you carry goods from a designer store in. Dad had the coffee ready and the family gathered.
Tray explained she had brought us a selection of madeleines. She said she had never seen or tasted madeleines like these in her life, and that they were beautifully decorated.
“With icing sugar?” asked dad.
Tray laughed.
She said the pâtissier who sold the madeleines expressed a deep concern when Tray explained she was bringing them back to Adelaide. He asked her when she was travelling, how soon would they be eaten, and insisted he vacuum pack the box for her. I smiled and rolled my eyes but mum and dad nodded knowingly.
I suppose a painter wants their artwork shown in the best light; to be perceived by its viewers in a setting that emphasises its best features. It’s the mark of an artist. Anyone who creates wants their products to be appreciated as they themselves appreciate them. Because the consumer’s enjoyment is their enjoyment.
But just how special could these madeleines be?
Well, I cut my way through the vacuum seal and unboxed the most exquisite assortment of cakes, and suddenly all the fuss made sense.
There lay six intricately decorated madeleines, so richly encased in colourful icing and chocolate they didn’t even look like madeleines anymore, each a different shape. The incredible attention to detail was evident not just in the decoration, but in the layering of flavours too.
We had the Christmas Collection so there was a Santa; a citrus madeleine filled with pear and champagne pate de fruits, paired with vanilla ganache, enrobed in white chocolate. The Nutcracker; traditional fruit cake with candied fruits and roasted nuts, topped with orange cream and milk chocolate. The Gingerbread; a gingerbread spiced madeleine filled with brown butter ganache and covered in blonde chocolate. And more!
The madeleine makers are Hyoju Park and Rong Yao Soh. Their patisserie, Madeleine de Proust, is situated in Lygon St, Carlton. The business opened in November 2024 and has become increasingly popular, attracting folks with and without a sweet tooth from all over the country. But despite the demand, the pair insist on keeping the production limited and prize quality over quantity.
Sounds like another couple I know!
With the madeleines carefully divided up between us, we enjoyed a long morning tea, savouring each flavour and smiling every time we took a bite.