An excerpt from Indi’s travel diary
It went something like this: I squeezed my way onto the midday bus from Catina Airport to Palermo, hit shuffle on the “Best Italian Hits Of All Time” playlist, and napped most of the 2-hour journey, the early morning flight taking its toll on me. Little did I know these would be the last moments I would have to myself for a while. My host met me with an arancini ball the size of my fist and whisked me away to the south-west corner of the island that would be my home for the next 2 weeks. We didn’t stop by the accommodation but drove straight to Casa Mirabile, a beloved Relais in the coastal town of Menfi. The beautifully preserved property boasts 12 suites, a vineyard, an ancient olive grove, a resort-style pool, and a lively traditional restaurant.
After a welcome glass of wine, I was ushered into the kitchen where I would spend the majority of my work hours. Dicing flawless, plump cherry tomatoes, skinning potatoes, rolling and shaping arancini balls, peeling crustaceans, mincing herbs, and crumbing various meats and vegetables for frying. We worked late mornings and even later nights. At the end of an enormous dinner shift I would retire to the old, very large white beach house with my host family for a wine or tea. We would sit a while on the front porch gazing at the midnight view and reflecting on the day. No one made it to bed before 3am here. Menfi is the town that never sleeps. Time outside of restaurant hours was just as brimming. I accompanied my host to lunches, gatherings, errands, business meetings, parties, and social calls. What we achieved in one day I would have attempted in three, and yet I never felt overworked and was able to thoroughly soak in every moment. There was always time to savour a hot bowl of fresh pasta, to slowly sip a wine, and to engage in deep conversation.
We were busy but hardly rushed. I could name a million things I am grateful for from this experience but above the immaculate cuisine, Mediterranean scenery, and other Sicilian delights, the thing I’m most appreciative for is the company along the way. These people love people, and they love deeply and unreservedly. There’s physical evidence, like arms around shoulders, kisses on foreheads, hand holding, and warm embraces, but there’s also glowing smiles, hearty laughter, gift giving, and thoughtfulness. I was welcomed into people’s homes like an old friend, and into the world of Casa Mirabile like I was family. Many of the people I interacted with had almost no English, yet I always had the feeling I was part of the conversation. Needless to say, this was the most difficult goodbye of my trip so far, and the feeling that crept into my chest as I sat in the airport terminal felt something like heartache.
THREE LESSONS FROM SICILY
1. Live boldly There was a boldness in the way the people around me conducted themselves. Something in the way they dressed, how they spoke, the composure and conviction in the way they moved, and the way they held their heads high. They are not people to hold back. They laugh easily, yell often, cry occasionally, smile brilliantly, they take up space in a room. Nothing is done or said by half measure. No emotion half felt or ignored. There’s a freeness and authenticity to the way they live, with a sprinkle of audacity. And the best part was it gave me permission to do the same.
2. Prioritise enjoyment On one of these precious sunny days, my host brought me along to a Sunday lunch held by some dear friends and their families. It was a splendid, three course meal, starring huge plates of colourful seafood paired with bottles of local white wine. Towards the end of the meal my host offered me a second serving of fish which I graciously declined, I was absolutely full. He instead served himself a second portion and replied with a smile, “I don’t eat it because I’m hungry, I eat it because it’s good.” I think this encapsulates the local mentality towards food perfectly. We may have only eaten one or two meals during the day but when we sat down at the table, there was sure to be an outstanding meal and a lot of it. It’s true, 90% of regular conversation is about food. However, they have this controlled and patient attitude towards it that doesn’t feel restrictive or obsessive. Quality and taste is prioritised over quantity and accessibility. It’s the healthiest relationship with food I’ve witnessed. Eat liberally what is good and satisfying, reject everything else.
3. Love is a verb You know the opening scene in Love Actually where it feels like you’re people-watching in the airport as families and couples reunite? Sometimes gatherings or events in the restaurant felt like a reenactment of that. Everywhere there are physical acts of affection. They kiss each other on the cheek and wrap their arms around someone’s neck and playfully poke each other in the ribs. Not just the women but the men too, of all ages. It’s never awkward because it’s never intimate, these are just honest acts of love. Perhaps this culture of openly expressing adoration for each other is the result of more firmly rooted relationships. The bonds these people share run deeper than in some households. They sacrifice for each other and speak highly of people. They are generous with their time and listen carefully. Although this may be evident in warm acts of love, it’s built on a foundation of loyalty and respect which they give unsparingly.
